Trend Report: The New Dark Age
Art Direction for Today's Knights, Maids and Jesters
Trend Report is a series where I'll analyze recent trends, exploring their origins, why they resonate, and how we can incorporate them into our work. Viewing these trends through my perspective as an Art Director, the series will focus on aesthetics and techniques, enriched by background knowledge on each topic. I'll combine research from available sources with personal insights and opinions, offering a mix of deeper dives and occasionally more subjective reflections.
I’m genuinely excited to write this piece because it's a topic I've been thinking about for quite some time, and it’s a pleasure to finally extensively research it.
At the beginning of this year, my partner introduced me to the Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute and asked me an intriguing question: which aesthetic would I like to see make a comeback in 2024? After taking a look at their index of aesthetics, I decided on "Mid-Century Medieval."
This revival aesthetic, emerging from the mid- 1950s to the 1970s, draws inspiration from medieval and renaissance motifs, all shaped by the optimism of the post-war economic boom. It heavily features blackletter typography, costume like fashion like men in tights or star adorned robes, dreamy fairytales and swords, creating a whimsical and nostalgic vibe. Before seeing it on the Index, my only experience with this aesthetic was in certain Czech fairytale films that are often shown on German TV around Christmas time.
Ever since then, we have been noticing various hints at an actual medieval revival throughout the year. Especially in the last few months it has felt less like a self-fulfilling prophecy backed by a some blackletter adorned branding and more like a full on wave of medieval aesthetics across different categories. In a world constantly flooded with fleeting micro-trends on our timelines, it can be challenging to pinpoint which will truly resonate and endure. But after doing the research, I have a good feeling about this one which I call: 'The New Dark Ages'
Lo, The Hour Hath Come: Why We’re Ready for Medieval Aesthetics
In many ways, embracing the medieval aesthetic feels like a natural evolution from the cottagecore trend that flourished during the pandemic, when many of us began to long for a simpler, more grounded way of life. Many of us suddenly found ourselves daydreaming of life in a cozy mountain cottage, tending to a few farm animals, perhaps a cow and a dog, and cultivating a humble garden of beans. (This makes me think of The Wall by Marlen Haushofer, a hauntingly beautiful novel I highly recommend. Haushofer’s work captures the essence of isolation and simplicity, paralleling our current nostalgia for rural tranquility.)
A few years later, we find ourselves mostly in a darker, more mystical and even harsher era, both in reality and aesthetics. As uncertainty rises in the aftermath of the global pandemic, we are confronted with a cost of living crisis and many are anxious about the upcoming election season. History repeats itself. Which makes some of us ask the inevitable question: Are todays tech billionaires really that different from the feudal landowners of the past?
Another key aspect that seems to drive this trend is the resurgence of craftsmanship and a yearning for a more human touch. It's a backlash to the overwhelming presence of AI-generated content and the ultra polished aesthetics of online life. In a time when digital experiences often overshadow our reality, there's a genuine craving for authenticity. We seek out the imperfect in things like sustainable natural materials, rustic brutalism, and signs of true, enduring craftsmanship. We want quality.
A big distinction from the Mid Century Medieval aesthetic is our conscious exclusion of the Renaissance aspects for now. We might be on our collective paths there but for now The New Dark Age evokes a more melancholic, dark and realistic tone. We are looking towards Joan of Arc rather than a princess.
Looking back at the time referenced, the Fashion during medieval times was a powerful indicator of social rank, with garments primarily designed to signify one's place within a strict social hierarchy. But even back then, trends evolved over time, with clothing becoming increasingly more tailored, tunics getting shorter for men and buttons growing in popularity. Color played a big part too, colored tunics were a privilege reserved for the upper classes, while peasants were limited to undyed wool, highlighting the stark class distinctions.
Thou Shalt Recall the Glory of Ye Olde Days (Though They Be a Fantastical Illusion)
One of the key factors driving this trend, as with many others, is our inclination towards nostalgia. In this case especially our fondness for the games and fantasy films from our childhood. Games are also the place many of us escape to when the real world becomes overwhelming. It gives us a similar cosiness as daydreaming of cottage life in that sense. This longing for escapism is precisely why this revival isn't historically accurate; instead, it embodies our desire to retreat into a more fantastical world.
Millenials grew up with the Lord of the Rings saga, while Gen-Z might've enjoyed The Hobbit or Game of Thrones. So we don't need to delve all the way back into history for inspiration, we can simply look to the many fantastical films and stories that shaped our imaginations.
Another big inspiration is Dune, some of the most anticipated films of the recent years. While set in a futuristic world, the film's costumes carry a distinctly medieval influence, crating a 'future medieval' look. This influence is also evident in fashion, notably in Marine Serre's Autumn/Winter 2020 collection, which drew inspiration from Dune. Serre’s interpretation took an apocalyptic angle, typical of the brand's commitment to sustainability and resourcefulness, which aligns closely with the themes of the New Dark Age.
This time around, medieval themes are not no longer just for self-proclaimed 'nerds'. It's more wide spread, getting picked up on the runway and by celebrities. Recently, a very fashion forward friend of mine told me, with genuine excitement about her plans to hit up the hardware store to gather supplies for crafting her own chainmail accessories. Incorporating details like this into your personal wardrobe can make really simple outfits unique, and bonus points if you go out and craft them yourselves, what a great hobby for the dark winter months.
Behold: The Dark Ages Returneth to Our Future Fashion
As I’ve mentioned, medieval inspirations have been recurring on the runway in recent years. Some of the most memorable examples are Rick Owens' goth robes and headpieces from the 2018 Ready-To-Wear Winter Collection, Gucci's maximalist fairytale heiress looks from the 2019 Cruise Collection and Paco Rabanne's iconic Fall/Winter 2020 line which was featuring full on chainmail looks. Notably, one of those chainmail dressed was worn by Chapelle Roan at the 2024 VMAs–a moment worth visiting in a bit more detail later on.
Here are some examples of current designers, collections, and recurring pieces of clothing:
Renaissance Renaissance
Designers like Renaissance Renaissance are at the forefront, skillfully reinterpreting historical garments with modern elements that bring elegance to contemporary, minimalist aesthetics. This third-generation, female-led couture atelier, based in Beirut, is known for crafting pieces with a nostalgic yet fantastical twist. The designs are characterized by simplicity with subtle, unique details, making them perfect for styling in a way that feels modern but also hints at a medieval-inspired fantasy.
Simone Rocha
The Label's Autumn/Winter 2024 Collection is breathtaking, with a masterful combination of faux fur, layered tulle, and satin that feels both luxurious and empowering—perfect for a modern-day "warrior" navigating anything from a dinner party to an important presentation. The standout hoods are a sophisticated evolution of last winter’s balaclava trend, adding a touch of elegance and drama that ties the collection together beautifully.
Romeo Shoes
The Y/Project x Melissa jelly shoes, though not new, deserve mention for their frequent appearances on the streets of Berlin, showcasing the trend in action. If you haven’t spotted them yet, they look like a fusion of a Cinderella slipper and footwear for an alien heiress. These shoes are among the first in a growing footwear movement dubbed the Romeo Shoes, aligning with the 'ugly shoe' phenomenon that Balenciaga initiated a few years ago. The trend features longer and pointier designs, the more elf looking, the better.
Red Carpets
As mentioned earlier, Chapelle Roan had a Cultural Moment earlier this year on the red carpet, showcasing a look direct from the Y/Project's Fall/Winter 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection. Complete with dagger-like nail extensions looking like chainmail claws, a sword, and a pistachio green robe, she certainly stole the show.
Similarly, Zendaya embraced a high concept approach for the Dune premieres. Her stylist, Law Roach, went all out, dressing her in a full metallic bodysuit from Mugler's Autumn/Winter 1995 'Cirque d'Hiver' collection and a custom Versace chainmail ensemble for the Met Gala, where I especially liked her hair. These examples show how working with a stylist that has a strong conceptual approach can have a powerful impact, and I would love to see more high-concept looks like these in the future.
Thou Shalt Draw Forth Inspiration from the Tomes of Ancient Lore
Authentically incorporating medieval aesthetics into art direction or branding presents a big opportunity for world-building that truly stands out. Some brands have already successfully embraced this trend, and I'd like to highlight a few examples before sharing some key insight on how to integrate this aesthetic into your own projects.
Teenage Engineering
The Swedish electronic company, known for its innovative and stylish music hardware, took a bold step this year by diving into a very niche market. They have brought back hurdy-gurdies, lutes, and Georgian chants with the worlds first electronic instrument designed exclusively for medieval music. At first glance, this may seem random, but it taps into the unique cultural moment, I recall medieval-themed raves in Berlin before the pandemic, and now there are entire club nights where partygoers dress as jesters, knights, and other whimsical characters. The addition of sound effects like swords clashing, arrows flying, and the sounds of farm animals, and even different witches, would really shine in that environment.
What truly impressed me was the art direction accompanying the rollout. The introductory video is beautifully crafted, portraying a sleek and stylish vision of a medieval world that compliments the instrument. It feels like a scene from a familiar fairytale, featuring mysteriously dressed figures wearing masks that mirror the user interface, fire circles with horses, and a stunning natural settings. The final scene, reminiscent of Dune, captures a moment where everyone hails this medieval electronics instrument.
The packaging, product design, and overall graphic mood strike the perfect balance. The design is simple yet detailed, with ornamental frames on their website and whimsical icons of keys and tiny candles adding a playful touch. I particularly love that even the LED numbers on the instrument are styled in thin blackletter.
This example serves as a masterclass in how to effectively participate in this trend without needing a Hollywood-sized budget. A clear vision, a solid concept, and a creative touch are all you really need.
Cards Against Humanity
Another intriguing example is the Cards Against Humanity: Tales edition. Although it doesn’t focus solely on medieval themes, it creatively shifts the game's structure, allowing players to build and evolve a narrative over time.
What captured my attention was the landing page, where the cards are artfully displayed on velvet fabric surrounded by human skulls, goblets, books, and candles. An image of a knight, sword in hand, dramatically holds the instructions against a sunset-colored sky, complete with kitschy lighting.
These images are beautifully executed retellings of classic oil paintings, with the product taking center stage. The attention to detail is impressive. Even though the game doesn’t adhere to a single historical period and embraces a more eclectic approach, it captures the mysticism, fantasy, and playfulness of The New Dark Age without dipping into cheap cosplay territory.
From a graphical perspective, they utilize small icons that resemble imagery typically found on traditional playing cards, alongside illustrations reminiscent of medieval woodcutting that depict tales being told. This adds a lovely touch, all seamlessly integrated into the game's otherwise minimalistic black-and-white branding.
Gather Ye the Fragments of Olde Wisdom to Forge Thy New Aesthetic
If all this has inspired you to explore the New Dark Age aesthetic in your next project, I’ve gathered some actionable insights, potential areas to develop, and sources of inspiration to consider:
Tone of Voice
Throughout the titles in this trend report, I’ve used a formal, almost biblical tone to evoke nostalgia with a touch of humor. This style can also be effectively applied to headline campaigns, enhancing the theme with a memorable, atmospheric touch.
Referencing Myths
Countless myths and tales await reinterpretation. Explore heroes, their lessons, and iconic figures or characters that can be reimagined for contemporary times. The possibilities are truly endless, inviting fresh narratives that resonate with today’s audiences.
Symbolism
This trend is visually rich, offering an abundance of historical paintings for inspiration in illustrations, icons, editorials, and campaigns. Symbols can communicate meaning effectively, especially when juxtaposing modern themes with nostalgic styles. Many original artworks from the past are in the public domain, making them accessible even for those with smaller budgets and a great source of inspiration.
Textures, Handmade, and Imperfect Elements
To evoke a genuine sense of craftsmanship, embrace slightly wonky perspectives and asymmetry. Incorporating graphic overlays of textures can enhance the aesthetic. You might even consider using techniques like burned edges, various textured papers, or metals to achieve a truly handcrafted feel.
The potential for this trend remains largely underdeveloped, making this new form of maximalism particularly exciting. I hope to see more creatives harnessing these ideas to transform our current dark times into unique visuals.
I hope you enjoyed this breakdown of The New Dark Age aesthetic and that it has sparked some new ideas for you. I'd love to hear your thoughts: Do you personally like the trend? Are you planning to incorporate it into any of your projects? Did I overlook an important aspect, or is there something noteworthy I missed out on so far? I'd love to hear form you!
Cheers,
Kimberly
